Saturday, June 8, 2013

Gontan

June 8 Gontan

We left our small albergue in San Xusto quietly so as not to wake everyone up. This is hard for Stuart because at the best of times he will drop all his change on the floor, knock over a chair, or break a dish. We made it to the road and there was hardly any rain. We started climbing it was quiet and still. The first big city was Lourenza. It is famous for the church of the monestary of San Salvador. We walked through town and continued to climb. About 4k later we came to Mondonedo. In the town center is the Cathedral. In a town of a little over 2000 you can see the presence of the Catholic Church in the history of Galicia. We stopped for coffee at the Pilgrims Bar and a chat with the bar owner. The hardest ascent of the entire northern way through Galicia is between Mondonedo and Gontan our final destination. Only a few hundred meters are flat the rest is either up or down, climbing and descending. We thought the major climb was over once arriving at Lousada. It only got steeper as we past the reminece of a lime kiln. We finally arrived and checked into a modern typically beautiful Galician Alberque. We showered and ran down to the restaurant before it closed. Being Saturday the restaurant closes at 1530 and doesn't reopen. All the stores are closed so to eat we had to hurry. After a very strenuous day, the meal was especially delicious. The albergue was 6€ and the meal 9€.

 

Wordless....

Church of Lourenza

Ordering up croissant and coffee.

The arrow points the way.

True Camino path, always wet on the shoes.

Try to imagine the day.... Mondonedo

Coffee stop. George first one in.

The road. In order George, Joan and Stu trying the hardest.

Overcast, however, beauty never rests.

On the way through the high country.

Getting to the top.

The long day's greatest reward. Shower, food, bed

 

Stu uses MotionX-GPS on the iPhone and is sharing with you the following track:

Tough Day


Name:Gontan
Date:Jun 8, 2013 6:35 am
Map:
(valid until Dec 5, 2013)
View on Map
Distance:30.6 kilometers
Elapsed Time:7:23:43
Avg Speed:4.1 km/h
Max Speed:5.9 km/h
Avg Pace:14' 31" per km
Min Altitude:40 m
Max Altitude:557 m
Start Time:2013-06-08T04:35:20Z
Start Location:
Latitude:43º 29' 10" N
Longitude:7º 15' 30" W
End Location:
Latitude:43º 22' 04" N
Longitude:7º 28' 06" W

 

San Xusto

June 7. San Xusto

We left Barres after a very pleasant night. Juan and the hotel staff were so helpful and accomadating. We crossed the river that separates Asturias from Galicia at Ribadeo. Once through the city tof Ribadeo, he Camino starts inland towards Santiago. The route goes up hills and down dales. We walked through plenty of Forrests of eucalyptus and pine. The valleys stretched below us. Green farmland with both small and large farms. We climbed and climbed and finally decended to arrive at Gondan our destination. We called to see when someone could come to open the Albergue and learned that it was closed and we had to walk to San Xusto 2k further on. We found a small albergue there and moved in. It has 4 rooms. One room with one set of bunks. The other 3 rooms having 2 sets of bunks. It has a small kitchen and 1 bathroom. There is a bar, resturaunt and hotel very near by. The dinner was 10 euros and delicious. Shortly after we arrived it began to rain. We were very fortunate to have our own little room where we could hide away from the others. Stu got into his bunk just after we ate at 1400 and didn't leave it until 0500 the next morning. He recovers slowly.

One great place to stay in Barres. Juan was a super host.

Crossing over the bridge to Galacia

We are saying good bye to the coast while stearing a course to Santiago.

Stu tearing up the trail. Always the staunch follower. It is getting harder and harder keeping up with the youth in the group.

Views like this are typical so are the overcast skies. We have enjoyed little sunshine during this entire adventure.

A new house, beautiful local rock with slate roof.

You have to be able to pose correctly.

Getting prepared to enter the red sack on the tinny bunk.

 

Stu uses MotionX-GPS on the iPhone and is sharing with you the following track:

Tough climbs


Name:San Xusto
Date:Jun 7, 2013 6:19 am
Map:
(valid until Dec 4, 2013)
View on Map
Distance:28.3 kilometers
Elapsed Time:6:54:14
Avg Speed:4.1 km/h
Max Speed:6.0 km/h
Avg Pace:14' 38" per km
Min Altitude:17 m
Max Altitude:368 m
Start Time:2013-06-07T04:19:53Z
Start Location:
Latitude:43º 32' 20" N
Longitude:7º 00' 02" W
End Location:
Latitude:43º 29' 08" N
Longitude:7º 15' 20" W

 

Friday, June 7, 2013

Barres

June 6 Barres

After a difficult night with little sleep we were up and out the door by 0615. The camino here is typical of the inland areas near the coast in western Austeria. We pased flat coastal plains with a rich architectural history. We also passed a string of small industrial towns. By early afternoon we were back walking through meadows toward Tol where we were going to stay in the Albergue. When we reached our destination we learned that the alberque would not open until later, possibly not until 1800. We decided to walk to Figueras another 6k. We were so fortunate to find a great resturaunt and hostal. The name is Hostal Casa Venancio right off the road. We got wonderful rooms for 25€ for a double and 16€ for a single. We then had a delicious lunch of a rice chicken salad with vegetables. We had a delicately battered hake and George had pork that was very tender. We followed all this with rice pudding. We ate ravonously like true pilgrams. Lunch was only 8€.

Walked N 634. Final the Camino at Porcia.

Farm land and lots of it.

Happiness is taking off your boots.

Happiness is two beds.

Happiness is finding Casa Venancio.

 

Stu uses MotionX-GPS on the iPhone and is sharing with you the following track:

Name:Barres
Date:Jun 6, 2013 6:09 am
Map:
(valid until Dec 3, 2013)
View on Map
Distance:32.3 kilometers
Elapsed Time:6:47:42
Avg Speed:4.7 km/h
Max Speed:6.6 km/h
Avg Pace:12' 38" per km
Min Altitude:0 m
Max Altitude:122 m
Start Time:2013-06-06T04:09:59Z
Start Location:
Latitude:43º 32' 39" N
Longitude:6º 40' 27" W
End Location:
Latitude:43º 32' 19" N
Longitude:7º 00' 02" W

 

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Pineras

June 5. Pinera

We left our little cabin by 6;30 and enjoyed the quiet of the morning. We passed many fields and came to a river enveloped by fog. A beautiful sight. Today we enjoyed the beauty of the fields and the smell of harvesting grass. The "boys" enjoyed watching the harvesting machines. After about 15 k we came to Luarca. It is one of the last big sea side cities we will see It is on the coast and a major seaport. There was market day when we arrived and they were selling everything from fish to jeans. We had our coffee break and then went on to finish our day with 17 more k. We had 2 detours because they are building a super high highway. We were deverted around mounds of cement and stones and tunnels and half done overpasses. We arrived at Pinero about 1300 and signed into our albergue that is an old school house right on the highway. There are 20 beds in a room and a seperate bathroom and shower. The hostilero runs a small store and fixes dinner for the pilgrims. She fixed us a dinner of zucchini soup salad, French fries, eggs and sausages. Desert was yogurt or flan. The cost was 8€ and 5€ for the Albergue. The traffic sounds, the snoring and highway lights kept Joan up most the night.

River fog

Feve, narrow railroad along the North Coast.

Beech along the way.

Entry to town.

Luarca from the East Side

Luarca from the West Side. Good example of "down then up".

Stu not looking so good. He always comes in last. Famous avoidance technique. He loves to follow.

Next to this church the school acting as a Alberque.

The school, one side for ninas the other for ninos. You wonder how long ago the church and school were active. We have stayed at four converted schools.


We all needed a beer.

Lady of the small store restaurant who cooked for us.

The table set for just us.

 

Stu uses MotionX-GPS on the iPhone and is sharing with you the following track:

Name:Pineras
Date:Jun 5, 2013 6:22 am
Map:
(valid until Dec 3, 2013)
View on Map
Distance:32.3 kilometers
Elapsed Time:7:44:04
Avg Speed:4.2 km/h
Max Speed:10.4 km/h
Avg Pace:14' 23" per km
Min Altitude:0 m
Max Altitude:174 m
Start Time:2013-06-05T04:22:22Z
Start Location:
Latitude:43º 32' 50" N
Longitude:6º 23' 55" W
End Location:
Latitude:43º 32' 39" N
Longitude:6º 40' 28" W

 

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Cadavedo

June 4 Cadavedo

We waited for breakfast at 0700 so we did not leave until 0715. We had a wonderful meandering walk to Soto de Luina through dirt track, forest and some road work. We have 3 guide books and they all recommend to take the road because the way marks on the Camino are in a mess due to highway construction. Soto de Luina is a lovely village. The church there is one of the best Astorian baroque sites. We stopped at the grocery to replenish chocolate bars, cheese and salami.

From there we had impressive views of the coast. We walked through many small hamlets located on high points. Prior to arriving there was always a low point you past through first. Up and down for 36k more than we had planned. We did this until we fell barely walked into Cadavedo. There was not an ounce of energy left in Joan. We thankfully booked rooms here. We are in a fantastic place. They are small cabins. They have kitchens and a wash machine two bed rooms and a bath. They are beautiful. George and Stu are in charge of dinner. The owner took them and two others shopping at a very modest grocery store. The name of the place is Apartments Carin. 615 898185. It is only 15 euros with breakfast. You don't want to miss this place.

 

George explaining how confusing the yellow arrows can be.

Empty road walking.

Packs are getting bothersome.

Romans had their aqueducts.

Always in need of a caffeine fix.

A cooling on shore breeze soothes the sweating body.

We convinced George not to...

You get to love the N632 or N634

Joan recovering. That is beer in her hand.

Drained. Is that another beer?

With owner of Apartments Carin

Our prayers go out to Laura and Lou our dear friends

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Stu uses MotionX-GPS on the iPhone and is sharing with you the following track:

Name:Cadavedo
Date:Jun 4, 2013 7:13 am
Map:
(valid until Dec 1, 2013)
View on Map
Distance:35.9 kilometers
Elapsed Time:8:29:45
Avg Speed:4.2 km/h
Max Speed:8.4 km/h
Avg Pace:14' 12" per km
Min Altitude:1 m
Max Altitude:166 m
Start Time:2013-06-04T05:13:58Z
Start Location:
Latitude:43º 33' 01" N
Longitude:6º 08' 20" W
End Location:
Latitude:43º 32' 50" N
Longitude:6º 23' 55" W